As Paris Fashion Week kicks off, it is apparent that this is the season of change – from new creative directors and new bases, to the rising stars and show-stopping shake-ups. Get your head around what the fashion crowd is talking about this season, below.
As the year of fashion musical chairs draws to a close, this season will see a number of recently appointed creative directors show their debut collections for their new houses. Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello (who was named as Hedi Slimane’s successor in April) will show the much-anticipated fruits of his first few months at the fashion house, as will Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior following her appointment in July. This will be a season of firsts for Grazia Chiuri, as she is the only woman to ever take the helm at the French label and it will also be the first collection that she will show without her long-term design partner Pierpaulo Piccioli (who will present his first solo vision for Valentino.) Lanvin’s show this season will be led by new creative director Bouchra Jarrar, who replaced Alber Elbaz at the house after he was controversially ousted last year, while Diane von Furstenberg presented its first collection by Jonathan Saunders in New York, following his appointment in May.
Some confirmed debuts will keep us holding on a little longer than others – Calvin Klein showed a small presentation by its in-house design team ahead of Raf Simons unveiling his first collection in February. Although it recently named Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia as co-creative directors, Oscar de la Renta had its in-house team finish its spring/summer 2017 collection following Peter Copping’s departure, so the fashion world will also have to wait until next year for their offering. And, while Versus Versace remained on the schedule this season, it was without the leadership of Anthony Vaccarello whose replacement is yet to be announced. (Vogue)
AS if promoting a new fragrance, Stash, and a new TV show, Divorce; running a successful footwear label; being on the boards of countless cultural committees; and raising three children wasn’t keeping Sarah Jessica Parker busy enough, the actress and producer has revealed she is launching a ready-to-wear collection comprising lots of little black dresses.
“Well folks, I’ve teased you long enough. It’s time for the big reveal. Introducing: the SJP LBD,” the star wrote on her Instagram account, with an accompanying video of her swirling around the revolving doors of London’s prestigious Claridge’s hotel. “A new collection of little black dresses designed by me, all made proudly in the USA.” (Vogue)
ASTLEY CLARKE has named Dominic Jones as its new creative director, the brand has announced this morning.
“I instantly fell in love with Dominic’s passion and commitment to increasing the relevancy of the fine jewellery category to modern women,” founder Bec Astley Clarke said of the appointment, which comes shortly after Venezuelan fashion entrepreneur Carmen Busquets – who introduced Jones to the brand – invested in the luxury jeweller. “I instantly fell in love with Dominic’s passion and commitment to increasing the relevancy of the fine jewellery category to modern women,” founder Bec Astley Clarke said of the appointment, which comes shortly after Venezuelan fashion entrepreneur Carmen Busquets – who introduced Jones to the brand – invested in the luxury jeweller. (Vogue)
BHS is set to relaunch online this week, five months after the British department store entered administration.
BHS.com will open for business on Thursday, selling lighting and home-furnishing products, which were the best-selling sections for the brand (constituting around 75 per cent of the most popular items sold and 50 per cent of the retailer’s online revenue) prior to its demise earlier this year. Following the launch, further lines will be added – including clothing, and kitchen and dining ware – to make up a smaller offering than the brand previously boasted, but focused on its most successful areas.
“We are thrilled to be relaunching this iconic brand back into the UK,” David Anderson, managing director of BHS International (which acquired BHS.com in June), said. “It had a loyal customer base with around 1.2 million British shoppers who bought from us online, and for our relaunch we have managed to secure many of the products they liked the most.”(Vogue)
AMERICAN APPAREL’s CEO, Paula Schneider, who was brought on board at the start of 2015 to help turnaround the fortunes of the headline-hitting retailer, has stepped down from her role at the company as it reportedly moves closer to a sale.
In her resignation letter, which was obtained by WWD, Schneider states that the “sale process currently under way for all or part of the company may not enable us to pursue the course of action necessary for the plan to succeed nor allow the brand to stay true to its ideals. Therefore, after much deliberation, and with heavy heart, I’ve come to the conclusion it is time for me to resign as CEO.” She cited the company’s large debts and “macroeconomic headwinds in retail, that have proven challenging for American Apparel along with most other specialty retailers in the US”, as specific hindrances on her watch. (Vogue)